Jan
1
Filed Under Crafts | Leave a Comment
Len Q. asked:
Most wood carving tools are cutting tools. Every cutting tool has at least one bevel. This is the sloping surface coming off the edge. But it’s more than jut a sloping surface. It’s actually a cutting angle. So the bevel supports a specific cutting angle that determines how the tool can be used. Experienced carvers know about bevels and how they affect cutting efficiency.
If you’re just starting out as a wood carver, and you’re going to purchase carving tools for the first time, here are some things you should know.
- Some carving tools leave the manufacturer without a bevel. This means that you’ll have to be the one to make the cutting angle, which determines the shape of the bevel. Many experienced wood carvers prefer new tools this way because they want to put the cutting angles on themselves. They don’t want to have to remake an edge.
- Non-beveled edges are only recommended for those wood carvers who already know how to sharpen knives or similar types of cutting tools. Beveled edges are essentially wedges and every metal wedge is, in effect, a knife. When you know how to sharpen knives, you can make the cutting angle (AKA the sharpening angle) just the way you want it. You control the bevel exactly.
- It’s pretty easy to find new carving tools with pre-set bevels already ground in by the manufacturer. Nevertheless, the new carver must be aware that, even though the cutting angle was created by the tool maker, it may not be the correct size or shape that they want. Don’t just assume that the bevel is correct. Know your needs, i.e. your specific carving tasks, and get the right tools. You shouldn’t rush this.
The cutting angle of your carving tool, or the length of the bevel, determines the strength of the wood you can carve. At its very basic, the greater the cutting angle, the steeper and shorter the bevel. The greater angle means more cutting strength on the edge. The stronger the edge, the harder the wood to be cut. What does it all mean?
- If you’re going to cut soft woods, you’ll want a small cutting angle on your tool’s edge. This is a very thin edge and makes for a very large bevel (a long backwards slope).
- If you’re going to cut hard woods, you’ll want a large cutting angle on your tool’s edge. This makes for a much thicker, slanted edge and a small bevel (short and steep).
Here is another important point to keep in mind. The size of the cutting angle on your edge can determine how much control you’ll have when carving.
- If you’re using a carving tool with a small cutting angle and a large bevel, more of your hands can rest on the wood. This provides better control and, therefore, better carving. Unfortunately, your edge isn’t as strong as it could be.
- If you’re using a carving tool with a large cutting angle and a small bevel, less of your hands can rest on the wood. This could make carving a bit clumsy because you’ve got much less control of your hands. It’s a curious thing. You’ve a strong edge that cuts fast but mistakes are easily made.
Because we’re talking about bevels, here are the three main types of bevels that can be found in wood carving: straight (square) bevels, rounded bevels (convex) and hollow (concave) bevels.
- Straight bevels. As the name sounds, these bevels have a straight square edge. They provide the most efficient cutting and the greatest strength to the edge for its sharpness. Many wood carvers prefer this type of bevel.
- Rounded bevels. The profile of a rounded bevel is convex and looks the exact opposite of a hollow bevel. More effort is needed to cut the wood because the wedge is normally thick. Therefore, cutting angles are large.
- Hollow bevels. Hollow bevels are concave and look the exact opposite of a rounded bevel. It’s a very unique shape but working with it isn’t very easy. Oftentimes, the hollowed bevel will unknowingly ride up on the edge of a cut so you’ve got to watch every part of it all of the time.
When you know the fundamentals of how cutting angles on beveled edges affect cutting efficiency, you’ll know so much about any cutting tool that you hold in your hand. Simple mistakes can be avoided and you’d be well on your way to becoming a skilled wood carver.
LAMAR
Most wood carving tools are cutting tools. Every cutting tool has at least one bevel. This is the sloping surface coming off the edge. But it’s more than jut a sloping surface. It’s actually a cutting angle. So the bevel supports a specific cutting angle that determines how the tool can be used. Experienced carvers know about bevels and how they affect cutting efficiency.
If you’re just starting out as a wood carver, and you’re going to purchase carving tools for the first time, here are some things you should know.
- Some carving tools leave the manufacturer without a bevel. This means that you’ll have to be the one to make the cutting angle, which determines the shape of the bevel. Many experienced wood carvers prefer new tools this way because they want to put the cutting angles on themselves. They don’t want to have to remake an edge.
- Non-beveled edges are only recommended for those wood carvers who already know how to sharpen knives or similar types of cutting tools. Beveled edges are essentially wedges and every metal wedge is, in effect, a knife. When you know how to sharpen knives, you can make the cutting angle (AKA the sharpening angle) just the way you want it. You control the bevel exactly.
- It’s pretty easy to find new carving tools with pre-set bevels already ground in by the manufacturer. Nevertheless, the new carver must be aware that, even though the cutting angle was created by the tool maker, it may not be the correct size or shape that they want. Don’t just assume that the bevel is correct. Know your needs, i.e. your specific carving tasks, and get the right tools. You shouldn’t rush this.
The cutting angle of your carving tool, or the length of the bevel, determines the strength of the wood you can carve. At its very basic, the greater the cutting angle, the steeper and shorter the bevel. The greater angle means more cutting strength on the edge. The stronger the edge, the harder the wood to be cut. What does it all mean?
- If you’re going to cut soft woods, you’ll want a small cutting angle on your tool’s edge. This is a very thin edge and makes for a very large bevel (a long backwards slope).
- If you’re going to cut hard woods, you’ll want a large cutting angle on your tool’s edge. This makes for a much thicker, slanted edge and a small bevel (short and steep).
Here is another important point to keep in mind. The size of the cutting angle on your edge can determine how much control you’ll have when carving.
- If you’re using a carving tool with a small cutting angle and a large bevel, more of your hands can rest on the wood. This provides better control and, therefore, better carving. Unfortunately, your edge isn’t as strong as it could be.
- If you’re using a carving tool with a large cutting angle and a small bevel, less of your hands can rest on the wood. This could make carving a bit clumsy because you’ve got much less control of your hands. It’s a curious thing. You’ve a strong edge that cuts fast but mistakes are easily made.
Because we’re talking about bevels, here are the three main types of bevels that can be found in wood carving: straight (square) bevels, rounded bevels (convex) and hollow (concave) bevels.
- Straight bevels. As the name sounds, these bevels have a straight square edge. They provide the most efficient cutting and the greatest strength to the edge for its sharpness. Many wood carvers prefer this type of bevel.
- Rounded bevels. The profile of a rounded bevel is convex and looks the exact opposite of a hollow bevel. More effort is needed to cut the wood because the wedge is normally thick. Therefore, cutting angles are large.
- Hollow bevels. Hollow bevels are concave and look the exact opposite of a rounded bevel. It’s a very unique shape but working with it isn’t very easy. Oftentimes, the hollowed bevel will unknowingly ride up on the edge of a cut so you’ve got to watch every part of it all of the time.
When you know the fundamentals of how cutting angles on beveled edges affect cutting efficiency, you’ll know so much about any cutting tool that you hold in your hand. Simple mistakes can be avoided and you’d be well on your way to becoming a skilled wood carver.
LAMAR
Nov
29
Filed Under Crafts | Leave a Comment
Len Q. asked:
Whittling is the removal of pare shavings or the cutting of small bits from a piece of wood using a knife or similar wedge-edged tool. It is the most basic form of wood carving but it is not actually the art of wood carving, as it is done today. Wood carving requires a number of tools, even power tools at that. So it could get complicated pretty fast. But this is not how it is when one whittles. All you need to whittle are two things: a piece of wood and a knife.
True whittling has always been very simple. Details in the wood aren’t very refined but rather pretty coarse. When you are holding a whittled object in your hand, you know it. You can plainly see each knife stroke. Using sand paper isn’t an option. This is the exact opposite of wood carving, which typically excels in details. When you’re holding a wood carving of the same object, you usually won’t see even one knife stroke. It’s very interesting. Whittling a little girl could take a week when all you’re using is a knife. Wood carving the same little girl requires more tools but it takes just a fraction of the time. She’ll also have many details that couldn’t be produced with just a knife.
Whittling requires no special tools, no special circumstance or any specific type of working environment. Just you, a piece of wood and your knife are all it takes. You can whittle anywhere inside or outside your home, in a car, at a picnic, in a park—nearly anywhere. This is not so with detailed wood carving.
There are quite a number of special tools that you’ll likely be using when wood carving. There are detail knives and carving knives, wood rasps and wood files, wood gouges and wood chisels. And these aren’t all of them. (Ever heard of a sanding stick?) There’s a very good chance that you’ll probably have a handful of power tools as part of your wood carving tool kit. Then you’ll also need to concern yourself with how to supply electric power. It isn’t so simple.
You really do need a designated work area when you’re wood carving. You usually aren’t even holding the wood you’re working on. Many times it’d be a vise doing that for you so you’ll need a good work bench or platform. And with all those valuable tools around, you don’t want anyone fiddling with them. Besides the possibility of losing them, many of them are dangerously sharp and no one should touch them but you. And what about that special creation that you’ve been working on for so long? You surely don’t want any spectators scoping it out when you’re not around. Who knows what’ll happen? (Hey, where’d the nose go?)
The act of whittling is considered to be a contemplative, meditative process. It isn’t so much what you’re whittling but the process itself. Wood carving, on the other hand, is more of an end result process. You strive to create what you see in your mind with all the details that come with it. You’ve a product to produce and so you may not care to spare any time.
It comes down to a matter of taste and how you feel. If you have no care to rush, you want to take your time and see what happens, whittling could be for you. If you’d like to see just how skilled you can be, how good you are at bringing out details, wood carving may be just what you’re looking for. Hey, try them both. You might surprise yourself.
—————————————–
Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world. If you would like to learn about
- Knife Sharpening: How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them
- The Fastest Way to Sharpen, Tests for Sharpness and more
- Sharpening Other Edges
(e.g. Chain Saws, Gardening Tools, Axes)
- Or maybe you could use a Free Guide on Sharpening Lawn Mower Blades
Find it here at www.MakeKnivesSharp.com.
SPENCER
Whittling is the removal of pare shavings or the cutting of small bits from a piece of wood using a knife or similar wedge-edged tool. It is the most basic form of wood carving but it is not actually the art of wood carving, as it is done today. Wood carving requires a number of tools, even power tools at that. So it could get complicated pretty fast. But this is not how it is when one whittles. All you need to whittle are two things: a piece of wood and a knife.
True whittling has always been very simple. Details in the wood aren’t very refined but rather pretty coarse. When you are holding a whittled object in your hand, you know it. You can plainly see each knife stroke. Using sand paper isn’t an option. This is the exact opposite of wood carving, which typically excels in details. When you’re holding a wood carving of the same object, you usually won’t see even one knife stroke. It’s very interesting. Whittling a little girl could take a week when all you’re using is a knife. Wood carving the same little girl requires more tools but it takes just a fraction of the time. She’ll also have many details that couldn’t be produced with just a knife.
Whittling requires no special tools, no special circumstance or any specific type of working environment. Just you, a piece of wood and your knife are all it takes. You can whittle anywhere inside or outside your home, in a car, at a picnic, in a park—nearly anywhere. This is not so with detailed wood carving.
There are quite a number of special tools that you’ll likely be using when wood carving. There are detail knives and carving knives, wood rasps and wood files, wood gouges and wood chisels. And these aren’t all of them. (Ever heard of a sanding stick?) There’s a very good chance that you’ll probably have a handful of power tools as part of your wood carving tool kit. Then you’ll also need to concern yourself with how to supply electric power. It isn’t so simple.
You really do need a designated work area when you’re wood carving. You usually aren’t even holding the wood you’re working on. Many times it’d be a vise doing that for you so you’ll need a good work bench or platform. And with all those valuable tools around, you don’t want anyone fiddling with them. Besides the possibility of losing them, many of them are dangerously sharp and no one should touch them but you. And what about that special creation that you’ve been working on for so long? You surely don’t want any spectators scoping it out when you’re not around. Who knows what’ll happen? (Hey, where’d the nose go?)
The act of whittling is considered to be a contemplative, meditative process. It isn’t so much what you’re whittling but the process itself. Wood carving, on the other hand, is more of an end result process. You strive to create what you see in your mind with all the details that come with it. You’ve a product to produce and so you may not care to spare any time.
It comes down to a matter of taste and how you feel. If you have no care to rush, you want to take your time and see what happens, whittling could be for you. If you’d like to see just how skilled you can be, how good you are at bringing out details, wood carving may be just what you’re looking for. Hey, try them both. You might surprise yourself.
—————————————–
Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world. If you would like to learn about
- Knife Sharpening: How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them
- The Fastest Way to Sharpen, Tests for Sharpness and more
- Sharpening Other Edges
(e.g. Chain Saws, Gardening Tools, Axes)
- Or maybe you could use a Free Guide on Sharpening Lawn Mower Blades
Find it here at www.MakeKnivesSharp.com.
SPENCER
Nov
21
Filed Under Crafts | Leave a Comment
Len Q. asked:
Whittling has been around for many hundreds of years. All the way back to the days of cavemen. One could say that it is because we began to whittle that technology began. It was the shaping of wood, after all—after the discovery of sharp edges—that sparked human imagination to make carts, cooking implements and clothes, weapons for hunting and methods of food gathering. Who would’ve thought?
So you want to whittle wood. Good for you. Whittling is the simple removal of pare shavings or cutting small bits from a piece of wood with a knife or a similar wedge-edged tool. No more, no less. So what does it take to become a good whittler?
To become a good whittler, you’ll need to know several things. You’ll need to know how to choose the right wood and the right knife. You’ll want to know some basic whittling techniques and just a bit about maintenance and storage.
Choosing the Wood.
- Soft woods are best for whittling. Pine cuts very easily but isn’t able to hold detail well. Basswood and Balsa are also very popular.
- Birch, cedar and maple aren’t considered to be soft woods but they are often used for whittling.
- When selecting wood for whittling, rely on two things: a straight grain and uniform color. A straight grain is usually a softer wood than crossed grains. Because changes in color usually mean changes in hardness, you’ll want to avoid this. When all else fails, press down on the wood with your thumbnail and rely on that to tell you how hard it is.
- If whittling wood is difficult to purchase, you could check your local lumberyard for a scrap bin. You just might find a treasure trove.
Choosing the Knife. There is no one specific type or brand of knife that is best for whittling. Mostly, it’s a matter of comfort.
- Avoid stainless steel knives. It isn’t easy to sharpen them correctly. Even when you do, they usually can’t hold a very sharp edge for too long. This makes them highly inefficient.
- Most whittlers like small knives that fit in the palm of your hand. Others like pocket knives, switchblade knives or folding knives (with lockable blades) that can be opened with one hand. Comfort and portability rule.
- Special whittling knives have short plump handles that give you an easier grip and better control. And because whittling involves extended periods, this is really great for precision and control.
- Some whittling knives come in kits. These kits may have several knives, each with a different edge shape. Or the kit might have a knife handle and several differently shaped blade edges that are interchangeable. Different edges allow for much better maneuverability.
- When you’re ready to buy one, shop around. Test them out. Give yourself time to find the best fit and comfort for your hands.
Safety Tips.
- You’ll be working with a small piece of wood and a small knife. First thing then is the knife. It should be balanced and have light weight. More than anything else, it must be comfortable in your hand. If it isn’t, you shouldn’t use it.
- Wear gloves. Think of it this way, if you cut your hands or fingers, you’re done. You won’t be able to whittle at all until it heals. Wear them, at least until you’ve developed some real skill at handling the knife.
- Be in a good frame of mind. Or at least a reasonably good frame of mind. If you are the type of person who becomes aggressive when upset, it’s probably not a good idea to whittle at that time. (Imagine losing a finger!)
Basic Whittling Techniques. It goes without saying but you’ve got to be sure. Keep fingers and all other body parts away from knife edges. Take no chances.
- When gripping your knife, your thumb should be against the spine with the edge facing your fingers.
- Each knife stroke you make should be away from your body. Never stroke towards your body. You know you’re just asking for it.
- The hand holding the knife should be further from your body than the hand holding the piece of wood.
- Lock your wrists for better control.
- Tuck your elbows into your sides to limit free movement.
Whittling Recommendations.
- Use a wide-beveled knife edge to cut soft wood or semi-soft wood. Conversely, use a narrow-beveled knife edge to cut hardwood. A narrow bevel means a higher cutting angle which means a stronger edge.
- When you’re done for the day, clean and dry your knives. A light coating of lubricant is recommended for your knife blades. Linseed oil is recommended for your wood handles. Take care of your knives and they could last your lifetime.
- If your knives don’t already have a case, store them in a way that protects their edges. Be sure that wherever they are, it’s safe and secure. Only you should be able to get to them.
- If you decide to use more tools than just a knife, you’ll be entering the world of detailed wood carving. Just clarifying that for you.
Sharpening Your Knife. Factory-made whittling knives are often unsharpened. This is preferable to a sharpened knife because dedicated whittlers prefer to make their own sharpening angles.
- You can use any of various coarse grade sharpening stones or a ceramic steel to create the cutting angles.
- A diamond slipstone or a diamond pocket file are great portables for times when you’re on the go. Or you can use them for quick touch-ups on your edges.
- A well-sharpened knife edge will need a strop to remove the burr and all other micro-bits from the edge. This improves the whittling process and delays further sharpening. If you prefer, a honing compound and honing board will also get that edge smooth.
- If you haven’t learned how to sharpen a knife and maintain its edge, these are among the first things you should learn. You’ll be more independent and as efficient as possible.
———————————————————
Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world. If you would like to learn about
- Knife Sharpening: How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them
- Sharpening Other Edges
(e.g. Chain Saws, Gardening Tools, Axes)
- Or maybe you could use a Free Guide on Sharpening Lawn Mower Blades
Find it here at www.MakeKnivesSharp.com.
LUCAS
Whittling has been around for many hundreds of years. All the way back to the days of cavemen. One could say that it is because we began to whittle that technology began. It was the shaping of wood, after all—after the discovery of sharp edges—that sparked human imagination to make carts, cooking implements and clothes, weapons for hunting and methods of food gathering. Who would’ve thought?
So you want to whittle wood. Good for you. Whittling is the simple removal of pare shavings or cutting small bits from a piece of wood with a knife or a similar wedge-edged tool. No more, no less. So what does it take to become a good whittler?
To become a good whittler, you’ll need to know several things. You’ll need to know how to choose the right wood and the right knife. You’ll want to know some basic whittling techniques and just a bit about maintenance and storage.
Choosing the Wood.
- Soft woods are best for whittling. Pine cuts very easily but isn’t able to hold detail well. Basswood and Balsa are also very popular.
- Birch, cedar and maple aren’t considered to be soft woods but they are often used for whittling.
- When selecting wood for whittling, rely on two things: a straight grain and uniform color. A straight grain is usually a softer wood than crossed grains. Because changes in color usually mean changes in hardness, you’ll want to avoid this. When all else fails, press down on the wood with your thumbnail and rely on that to tell you how hard it is.
- If whittling wood is difficult to purchase, you could check your local lumberyard for a scrap bin. You just might find a treasure trove.
Choosing the Knife. There is no one specific type or brand of knife that is best for whittling. Mostly, it’s a matter of comfort.
- Avoid stainless steel knives. It isn’t easy to sharpen them correctly. Even when you do, they usually can’t hold a very sharp edge for too long. This makes them highly inefficient.
- Most whittlers like small knives that fit in the palm of your hand. Others like pocket knives, switchblade knives or folding knives (with lockable blades) that can be opened with one hand. Comfort and portability rule.
- Special whittling knives have short plump handles that give you an easier grip and better control. And because whittling involves extended periods, this is really great for precision and control.
- Some whittling knives come in kits. These kits may have several knives, each with a different edge shape. Or the kit might have a knife handle and several differently shaped blade edges that are interchangeable. Different edges allow for much better maneuverability.
- When you’re ready to buy one, shop around. Test them out. Give yourself time to find the best fit and comfort for your hands.
Safety Tips.
- You’ll be working with a small piece of wood and a small knife. First thing then is the knife. It should be balanced and have light weight. More than anything else, it must be comfortable in your hand. If it isn’t, you shouldn’t use it.
- Wear gloves. Think of it this way, if you cut your hands or fingers, you’re done. You won’t be able to whittle at all until it heals. Wear them, at least until you’ve developed some real skill at handling the knife.
- Be in a good frame of mind. Or at least a reasonably good frame of mind. If you are the type of person who becomes aggressive when upset, it’s probably not a good idea to whittle at that time. (Imagine losing a finger!)
Basic Whittling Techniques. It goes without saying but you’ve got to be sure. Keep fingers and all other body parts away from knife edges. Take no chances.
- When gripping your knife, your thumb should be against the spine with the edge facing your fingers.
- Each knife stroke you make should be away from your body. Never stroke towards your body. You know you’re just asking for it.
- The hand holding the knife should be further from your body than the hand holding the piece of wood.
- Lock your wrists for better control.
- Tuck your elbows into your sides to limit free movement.
Whittling Recommendations.
- Use a wide-beveled knife edge to cut soft wood or semi-soft wood. Conversely, use a narrow-beveled knife edge to cut hardwood. A narrow bevel means a higher cutting angle which means a stronger edge.
- When you’re done for the day, clean and dry your knives. A light coating of lubricant is recommended for your knife blades. Linseed oil is recommended for your wood handles. Take care of your knives and they could last your lifetime.
- If your knives don’t already have a case, store them in a way that protects their edges. Be sure that wherever they are, it’s safe and secure. Only you should be able to get to them.
- If you decide to use more tools than just a knife, you’ll be entering the world of detailed wood carving. Just clarifying that for you.
Sharpening Your Knife. Factory-made whittling knives are often unsharpened. This is preferable to a sharpened knife because dedicated whittlers prefer to make their own sharpening angles.
- You can use any of various coarse grade sharpening stones or a ceramic steel to create the cutting angles.
- A diamond slipstone or a diamond pocket file are great portables for times when you’re on the go. Or you can use them for quick touch-ups on your edges.
- A well-sharpened knife edge will need a strop to remove the burr and all other micro-bits from the edge. This improves the whittling process and delays further sharpening. If you prefer, a honing compound and honing board will also get that edge smooth.
- If you haven’t learned how to sharpen a knife and maintain its edge, these are among the first things you should learn. You’ll be more independent and as efficient as possible.
———————————————————
Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world. If you would like to learn about
- Knife Sharpening: How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them
- Sharpening Other Edges
(e.g. Chain Saws, Gardening Tools, Axes)
- Or maybe you could use a Free Guide on Sharpening Lawn Mower Blades
Find it here at www.MakeKnivesSharp.com.
LUCAS
Oct
5
Filed Under Crafts | Leave a Comment
Len Q. asked:
If you’re just starting out as a wood carver, you’ll quickly discover how wood chisels are used all the time. There are many kinds, many sizes. They’ll need periodic sharpening and it’s good to be able to do them yourself. It isn’t very fitting to have to bring your tools to a professional sharpener whenever they become dull. You lose money, you lose time. And the best thing of all, straight chisels are the easiest wood carving tools to sharpen.
Straight chisels can be sharpened in two steps. The first step is to get the tool’s edge to absolute sharpness. The second step is to strop that edge to silky smoothness.
- Straight Chisel Sharpening. This is sharpening for straight square chisels and it’s very simple. Start with a coarse grade sharpening (honing or whetting) stone. Make the shaft vertical with the edge touching the stone. Slowly lower the end that is facing up until the edge’s surface touches the wood. Stop right there. With the beveled face flush on the stone, you have achieved the correct sharpening angle.
While holding the chisel’s beveled face flush against the stone, place your index finger on the top of the beveled surface for better control. Pull the chiseled edge towards you, making sure to keep the beveled face flush at all times. Do this 10-20 times and then check for a burr. A burr is a feather-like sliver of wire that will come off the chisel’s edge when you have achieved absolute sharpness. You slide your finger across the edge (never lengthwise!) and a burr will feel like sand or grit on your edge. If there isn’t a burr, do another set of strokes until you’ve correctly raised it. If the tool has a second bevel, sharpen it as you have just done with the first bevel. Sharpen until you’ve correctly raised a burr.
After sharpness has been achieved with a coarse stone, move to a fine grade stone. You can do this with just one fine grade stone or with a succession of increasingly fine grade stones. Perform the sharpening strokes in the same way, for each sharpening stone, until you get a burr. If you’ve got a second bevel, do the same until a burr is raised.
Be very sure that you’ve raised a burr along the entire length of the chisel’s edge, and on both side, for each sharpening stone that you use. You’ve got to make it happen. If you won’t make sure, just stop what you’re doing and go watch television. I’m not kidding. If you’re going to sharpen, do it well or not at all. It will affect how well you’re able to carve. (If that doesn’t matter to you, really, then what are you doing?)
There are a couple of different stroke techniques that are commonly used when sharpening straight chisels. With your index finger on the top of the beveled surface as you grip the shaft, place the fingers of your other hand on top of the first. Instead of pulling the tool towards you, you run it in circles. If not that, you can also push the tool sideways in one direction and then sideways in the other. There is no one specific method. Experiment and see which technique is best for you. I like the stroke that pulls away from the edge best. It’s the simplest way to raise a burr and then detect it.
- Skewed Chisel Sharpening. Skewed chisels are just a bit different from straight chisels. A skewed chisel’s edge is at a slanted angle, a skewed angle, and joins the side of the chisel head at an acute angle of less than 90 degrees.
Sharpening a skewed chisel is done in just the same way as sharpening a straight chisel. There is only one difference. The skewed edge needs to be made parallel to the forward edge of the sharpening stone. Or the edge can be made perpendicular to the side edge of the sharpening stone. Either way works fine. Just be consistent if there is a second bevel.
- Chisel Stropping. Your well-sharpened chisel now has burrs all along its edge. Well done. Stropping will remove those burrs and all other micro-bits still clinging.
You’ve got a couple of choices when it comes to stropping. First choice: You can use a free strap of leather to strop your edge in one direction and then the other. Lay the beveled face of your chisel’s edge flat on the strap and pull away from the edge, parallel to the length-wise surface of the strap. Near the end of the strap, lift the chisel and turn it over. Place the opposite face of the chisel’s edge flat on the strap. Pull in the opposite direction, away from the edge and parallel to the strap surface. Back and forth and back and forth until your edge is silky smooth.
Leather strops and stropping boards are usually combined with a polishing compound. It facilitates the stropping process and makes carving much easier. It may be in the form of a liquid, a paste, a powder or even a solid block that fits in the palm of your hand.
Stropping is a very important step in sharpening and shouldn’t be dismissed. Think of it as you using a chisel with a dirty edge. It surely doesn’t perform as well as a clean edge. And because it’s dirty, using it will cause you to have to sharpen it much quicker than you usually would. So strop, and strop well. Your carving will be better for it.
Beginners need to be very careful when stropping. As novices in this art, the edge is often rounded instead of being polished smooth. That’s because the flushness of the edge to the strap isn’t properly maintained throughout the stopping process. In case like this, a secondary bevel is usually produced that will thicken with each sharpening. Eventually, the only way to save the edge is to remake it. That would be a great loss in time and effort. Pay close attention.
When you’ve trained those hands to do a good job, you’ll be able to sharpen any straight chisel, any skewed chisel in your tool collection. That’s a lot you already know about sharpening carving tools. Keep it up. Just be so careful and watch out for secondary bevels.
BURT
If you’re just starting out as a wood carver, you’ll quickly discover how wood chisels are used all the time. There are many kinds, many sizes. They’ll need periodic sharpening and it’s good to be able to do them yourself. It isn’t very fitting to have to bring your tools to a professional sharpener whenever they become dull. You lose money, you lose time. And the best thing of all, straight chisels are the easiest wood carving tools to sharpen.
Straight chisels can be sharpened in two steps. The first step is to get the tool’s edge to absolute sharpness. The second step is to strop that edge to silky smoothness.
- Straight Chisel Sharpening. This is sharpening for straight square chisels and it’s very simple. Start with a coarse grade sharpening (honing or whetting) stone. Make the shaft vertical with the edge touching the stone. Slowly lower the end that is facing up until the edge’s surface touches the wood. Stop right there. With the beveled face flush on the stone, you have achieved the correct sharpening angle.
While holding the chisel’s beveled face flush against the stone, place your index finger on the top of the beveled surface for better control. Pull the chiseled edge towards you, making sure to keep the beveled face flush at all times. Do this 10-20 times and then check for a burr. A burr is a feather-like sliver of wire that will come off the chisel’s edge when you have achieved absolute sharpness. You slide your finger across the edge (never lengthwise!) and a burr will feel like sand or grit on your edge. If there isn’t a burr, do another set of strokes until you’ve correctly raised it. If the tool has a second bevel, sharpen it as you have just done with the first bevel. Sharpen until you’ve correctly raised a burr.
After sharpness has been achieved with a coarse stone, move to a fine grade stone. You can do this with just one fine grade stone or with a succession of increasingly fine grade stones. Perform the sharpening strokes in the same way, for each sharpening stone, until you get a burr. If you’ve got a second bevel, do the same until a burr is raised.
Be very sure that you’ve raised a burr along the entire length of the chisel’s edge, and on both side, for each sharpening stone that you use. You’ve got to make it happen. If you won’t make sure, just stop what you’re doing and go watch television. I’m not kidding. If you’re going to sharpen, do it well or not at all. It will affect how well you’re able to carve. (If that doesn’t matter to you, really, then what are you doing?)
There are a couple of different stroke techniques that are commonly used when sharpening straight chisels. With your index finger on the top of the beveled surface as you grip the shaft, place the fingers of your other hand on top of the first. Instead of pulling the tool towards you, you run it in circles. If not that, you can also push the tool sideways in one direction and then sideways in the other. There is no one specific method. Experiment and see which technique is best for you. I like the stroke that pulls away from the edge best. It’s the simplest way to raise a burr and then detect it.
- Skewed Chisel Sharpening. Skewed chisels are just a bit different from straight chisels. A skewed chisel’s edge is at a slanted angle, a skewed angle, and joins the side of the chisel head at an acute angle of less than 90 degrees.
Sharpening a skewed chisel is done in just the same way as sharpening a straight chisel. There is only one difference. The skewed edge needs to be made parallel to the forward edge of the sharpening stone. Or the edge can be made perpendicular to the side edge of the sharpening stone. Either way works fine. Just be consistent if there is a second bevel.
- Chisel Stropping. Your well-sharpened chisel now has burrs all along its edge. Well done. Stropping will remove those burrs and all other micro-bits still clinging.
You’ve got a couple of choices when it comes to stropping. First choice: You can use a free strap of leather to strop your edge in one direction and then the other. Lay the beveled face of your chisel’s edge flat on the strap and pull away from the edge, parallel to the length-wise surface of the strap. Near the end of the strap, lift the chisel and turn it over. Place the opposite face of the chisel’s edge flat on the strap. Pull in the opposite direction, away from the edge and parallel to the strap surface. Back and forth and back and forth until your edge is silky smooth.
Leather strops and stropping boards are usually combined with a polishing compound. It facilitates the stropping process and makes carving much easier. It may be in the form of a liquid, a paste, a powder or even a solid block that fits in the palm of your hand.
Stropping is a very important step in sharpening and shouldn’t be dismissed. Think of it as you using a chisel with a dirty edge. It surely doesn’t perform as well as a clean edge. And because it’s dirty, using it will cause you to have to sharpen it much quicker than you usually would. So strop, and strop well. Your carving will be better for it.
Beginners need to be very careful when stropping. As novices in this art, the edge is often rounded instead of being polished smooth. That’s because the flushness of the edge to the strap isn’t properly maintained throughout the stopping process. In case like this, a secondary bevel is usually produced that will thicken with each sharpening. Eventually, the only way to save the edge is to remake it. That would be a great loss in time and effort. Pay close attention.
When you’ve trained those hands to do a good job, you’ll be able to sharpen any straight chisel, any skewed chisel in your tool collection. That’s a lot you already know about sharpening carving tools. Keep it up. Just be so careful and watch out for secondary bevels.
BURT